Nineteen aircraft flew from
France to Africa on behalf of Air Solidarité. There were two
Canadian women in the group. The flight in October 2002 is over and
all aircraft have returned safely to their bases. The flight itself
was a formidable adventure, rich in events, surprises and
friendships. The ingredients for this success depended on the great
route, aircraft in perfect shape and crews who were responsible.
Other years we had not been so lucky. One aircraft landed in the
desert, another burned completely on the runway and two had a
mid-air collision.
What is Air Solidarité?
Solidarity means team work. There is a volunteer organization in
Paris, which sends humanitarian aid to several countries in Africa
each year. These six volunteers team up with thirty volunteers in
Africa. They believe in supporting projects at the grass-roots
level. This encourages African people to make a life for
themselves. The yearly excursions by air, more team work, monitor
this progress. Responsibility for supplying 10,000 Euros for each
project rests with the crews. 2003 will be the 15th
anniversary of ASI with their African friends.
The Canadian team, Daphne
and Adele, flew with a friend from Bordeaux. Jacqueline had rented
a plane, an 177RG, from that airport. Typically, Air Solidarité had
organized the route and made the flight to Africa possible. We
relied on sponsors, to help us with project money and flying
expenses. Other crews came mainly from Europe; France, Luxembourg,
Belgium and Switzerland. Some, very experienced, were 747 captains
or air traffic controllers. The aircraft by contrast, were all
single engine and small. The runways, sometimes very basic, short
and gravel, dictated this. The price of fuel played a part too. It
is often as high as $3.00 a litre. Moreover, fuel is not always
available, as we found out. Air Solidarité ordered it ahead of
time, to be delivered, as in the Arctic, in barrels. Then it is up
to the pilots, to roll the barrels to their plane and pump the fuel
into the wing. The trucks doing the delivery this year, either
broke down, or were hijacked. Complicating the delivery, in Niger,
a plague of insects was threatening the crops. It was found the
population would risk a famine. The fuel, consequently, was
reserved by the government for crop spraying. And so, we waited.
Maroua in Cameroun was where
we waited. Our three women crew had flown there commercial from
Paris. Here we were to meet our aircraft. Two others were to have
flown it from France visiting projects en route. They were then to
return home commercial while we continued on; team work again. This
plan was not to be. Niamey the previous stop was caught by the fuel
trap. Later, when they did arrive, there was little fuel in Maroua
either. The next stop, Zinder in Niger, had none. The
powers-that-be suggested we carry the fuel in 5 plastic containers
inside the aircraft. But one sniff of the fumes emerging from these
containers, was enough for us to reject the idea.
Our wait in Maroua, was quite
positive. This is where one of the ASI headquarters is located. We
were able to visit a series of projects and were quite impressed.
Over the last ten years, products once considered quite worthless
were now very saleable on the open market. Take for instance, the
leather handbags and suitcases, all of hand dried leather; the
beautiful and pricey linens; the elegant pottery; the automobiles
with engines expertly restored; and even smoked meat. The night
schools for adults were most impressive of all. Here, in separate
classes, men and women, learned to speak, converse and perform using
French as spoken in France. Most West Africans, 60% of whom go to
school, speak the local West African French. This is not useful
when dealing commercially.
The large boxes of medicines
we had brought with us, were donations from two pharmaceutical
companies in Toronto. In Maroua, we were met by the chief
pharmacist of Burkina Faso. He assured us that unlike other drugs
reaching Africa, they would not be sold or disappear. Rather, he
would see they were distributed, under volunteer monitoring to the
“most needy”. They were especially needed to treat meningitis.
Our next stop, following
Zinder, was to have been Agadez, Niger. As a military Air Force
base, Agadez, has an usually long runway, one half of which was to
have been repaired. Then, a jet landing on the other half, tore up
the runway making it unuseable. Fortunately, Iferouane, Niger was
only a short hop away. From there on, a breath taking flight was in
store for us. We flew over a fairy-like landscape. Alternately vast
sand dunes of l’Air desert were surrounded by high hills
necessitating flight at 10,000 ft. On landing we were greeted by a
crown of people who were characterized by their motto of “Silence,
Liberty and Honour”. All of them, were typically wearing turbans,
which covered their mouths, to prevent breathing sand.
What can one do in the
desert? We discovered at least three things. Struggling up a vast
sand dune to view a sunset, was one. If lucky, you might find a
sand rose, a small sculpture made by the wind, a sand compound.
Another, was to sit in solitary and call home on a satellite phone.
There was only one in the crowd, so it was in great demand, even at
$10 a minute. Most spectacular was drag racing. Ten four wheel
drive vehicles and drivers were hired for us. No restrictions about
staying on roads apply, for there are no wild animals around. So we
raced up high dunes sliding backwards and sideways, finding
alternate routes. Views of marble popping up through the sand or
blue mountain formations were a delight.
Then we were on to Ghadames
in Lybia. Throughout the trip, at night we alternatively camped on
the desert, stayed at a youth hostel or camped on airport grounds.
All accommodations were quite basic. Those of us who had brought
tents and sleeping bags were most grateful. Temperatures varied
from 40 0 C at daytime to 5 0 C at night.
Forgetting to bring your sleeping bag from the plane was not a good
idea. The planes at night were all guarded by local police.
Otherwise, poor people, desperate for anything to cell, might
“borrow” parts of the aircraft. In Ghadames, we discovered an
ancient town being restored by UNESCO. All in white stucco, the
turrets and walkways, when completed will be spectacular.
Bedouins provided our next
adventure in Lybia. Wandering from place to place, several families
live together in the desert with their camels and goats. Their
children were in spite of this isolation, delightfully sociable.
Their women, find time to weave beautiful costumes and beat drums
for the dancing. The men dance fiercely with swords. Goat
shishkebobs and of course rice, was their offering to us for dinner.
Next stop was Monastir in
Tunisia. Overflying the countryside showed that irrigation had been
possible. Geometric patters of date trees criss-crossed the land.
For the first time in our flight, radar was available. Celebrating
our success with a sumptuous banquet that evening, the crews bid
each other a fond farewell.
Doning our life vests, and
with a life raft at hand, the three of us started across the
Mediterranean to Corsica. Overnight, we stayed at a delightful
village, Calvi, brimming with music, yachts and picturesque outdoor
restaurants. Then we were off to France. Weather unlike that of
Africa, now became a problem. Bordeaux, our home base was down in
fog with a weather system in between us. By contrast, communication
with Air Traffic Control, like Africa, was, at low level, in
French. With careful timing, we managed to arrive at Bordeaux
during a brief period of clear skies. Next morning it was time to
hose down the aircraft. It was covered in sand. The engineers
would have to do the same, with the engine. We, the crew, needed
refurbishing too. We had sand in our eyes, ears, hair and lipstick.
Altogether, though, it had
been a very rewarding adventure. We hope to repeat it in 2003.
Air
Solidarité 2001
Air Solidarité 2000
